São Tomé - Pico Cão Grande climb

Pico Cão Grande: The World's Wildest Big Wall

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São Tomé's 663 m Volcanic Needle

Pico Cão Grande isn't a crag. It's an expedition into one of the most hostile climbing environments on Earth: jungle, deadly snakes, 280 rainy days a year, and two of the hardest big-wall free climbs anywhere. 

1. The Jungle Approach – The Trek Is Already the First Pitch

You don't just walk to the base. You fight your way there.

• Starting Point: Agripalma palm-oil plantation (private land) Mandatory permit + local fixer/guide. Without them you're stopped at the gate.
• Distance to base camp: ~6 km, 1.5–3 hours 1–4 km easy plantation roads (sometimes drivable in 4×4) 3 km brutal jungle bushwhacking: wet, slippery, vines, ferns – machete often required Ankle-deep crossing of the Caué River (your only water source – bring purification) Final steep ridge to the base camp cave right under the plug.

2. The Real Danger on the Ground: Black Cobra (Cobra-Preta)

Endemic, highly venomous, and common in the area. A bite can kill in under two hours. Sightings in the cave and even on the wall are documented. Step carefully and make noise while bushwhacking.

3. A Short but Insane Climbing History

• 1975: First ascent by a Portuguese-local team using long aluminium ladders
• 1991: First "modern" ascent – Japanese team, 18 pitches, 5.10a A2
• 2016–2018: Birth of hard free climbing

4. The Two King Lines

Nubivagant ("Cloud Wanderer") – 455 m, 15 pitches, 8b (5.13d) Opened 2016 by Gareth Leah (UK) & Sergio Almada (Mexico). Massive roof cruxes straight off belays.

Leve Leve ("Take it slow" – the national motto) – 450 m, 8b+ (5.14a) Opened ground-up in 2018 by Iker & Eneko Pou + Manu Ponce. Fully trad, cleaned on lead. Still awaits a one-day free ascent.

5. Why Pico Cão Grande Is So Brutally Hard

• Constant moisture + thick moss/lichens = friction often close to zero
• ~280 rainy days/year, 4,500–5,000 mm annual precipitation
• Even in the "dry" season (Gravanna), the Pou brothers had only 3 rain-free days in 26
• Permanent cloud shroud on the summit ("Nubivagant state") – you often climb blind at the top

6. Best Time & Realistic Planning

Window: June to September – local dry season called Gravanna Reality: Still extremely wet and unpredictable. Minimum stay: 3 weeks on the island if you want any chance of dry(ish) rock.

7. Gear & Logistics You Actually Need

• Full big-wall kit + portaledge + serious rain protection
• Complete trad rack (lots of cams & nuts)
• Machete, water filter, strong headlamps
• Local guide/fixer (non-negotiable)
• Patience – tons of it

Final Words

Pico Cão Grande is not a sport-climbing destination and definitely not an Instagram day-trip. It's a proper expedition that combines 5.14 trad climbing with jungle survival, venomous snakes, and equatorial monsoon weather.

If you just want the iconic photo, come at sunrise before the clouds swallow the needle. If you want to climb it… good luck, and leve leve.

Stay safe out there,